The CryptHEX

Why I built the CryptHEX

The CryptHEX (9SQM) — A fully mechanical 3D-printed cryptex I designed for a Cyber Security CTF (Capture The Flag). Twelve independently rotating rings each have 16 hexadecimal positions (0–9, A–F), creating a 48-bit combination space. Solving one of the CTF challenges revealed the code needed to open the CryptHEX; inside was the code required to continue with the next challenge. Flexible TPU locking pins make the correct ring positions deliberately difficult to detect by feel. Forget the code and there is no reset button, recovery procedure or password hint. There is, however, a saw.

Using the CryptHEX

1. CryptHEX — Assembly, Code Setup and Locking

Before You Start

The CryptHEX uses twelve code rings, each with 16 positions: 0–9 and A–F. The combination therefore consists of twelve hexadecimal characters.

Each code ring works together with a click ring, providing 16 distinct rotational positions.

The inner tube carries twelve flexible lock pins. For the inner tube to be inserted or removed, the openings in all twelve rings must be aligned with these lock pins.

The O markings are used during assembly to indicate the position of the lock pins. The arrows at the top and bottom of the CryptHEX indicate the code-reading position.

Important: Make sure you know the intended 12-character code before locking the CryptHEX. Once locked, it cannot be opened without the correct code. If you forget it, mechanical persuasion involving a saw may be required.


Step 1 — Install the Click Rings

Slide the first click ring onto the outer tube.

Each click ring has a clearance slot that allows it to pass over the click mechanism. Align this slot with the click mechanism and slide the ring down into position.

Repeat this procedure until all 12 click rings have been installed.

Step 2 — Move the Click Rings to the Open Position

Once all twelve click rings are installed, rotate each click ring 180 degrees.

The clearance slots should now be positioned on the opposite side of the click mechanism, creating a continuous vertical clearance for the twelve lock pins on the inner tube.

The O markings indicate this lock-pin position. and should now align with the arrow on the fixed ring of the outer tube.

The CryptHEX is now in its open position.

Step 3 — Install the Code Rings and Set the Combination

Fit the twelve hexadecimal code rings onto their corresponding click rings.

The physical position of each code ring relative to its click ring determines which character will appear at the code-reading position when the lock-pin openings are aligned.

Position each code ring so that the desired hexadecimal character appears along the code-reading line indicated by the arrows at the top and bottom of the CryptHEX.

Repeat this for all twelve rings.

The twelve characters between the arrows now form the opening code.

Step 4 — Install the Locking Lid

Before inserting the inner tube, place the locking lid onto the CryptHEX and rotate it fully into its locked position.

This must be done before inserting the inner tube.

Once the inner tube has been installed, it mechanically prevents the locking lid from being rotated and removed.

Step 5 — Insert the Inner Tube

Check once more that all twelve code rings are correctly positioned.

The arrows at the top and bottom of the CryptHEX indicate the code-reading position. The twelve hexadecimal characters aligned between these arrows must show the intended combination.

Carefully slide the inner tube into the outer tube.

The twelve flexible lock pins should pass through the aligned openings without requiring significant force.

Do not force the inner tube. If it does not slide in freely, check that all twelve rings are correctly positioned.

Push the inner tube fully into position.

Step 6 — Lock the CryptHEX

Rotate several or all of the code rings away from the programmed combination.

The openings are now moved away from the lock pins, preventing the inner tube from being removed.

Because the inner tube also blocks the locking lid, the complete assembly is now mechanically locked.

The CryptHEX is now locked.

To open it again, rotate all twelve rings until the correct hexadecimal combination appears between the two arrows. This realigns all twelve openings with the lock pins, allowing the inner tube to be removed.


2. CryptHEX — Disassembly, Changing the Code and Reassembly

Before You Start

To change the combination, the CryptHEX must first be opened using its current 12-character hexadecimal code.

There is no externally accessible reset mechanism while the CryptHEX is locked.

Important: Do not start changing the code unless you know the current combination and can successfully remove the inner tube.


Step 1 — Enter the Current Code

Rotate each of the twelve code rings until the correct hexadecimal combination appears along the code-reading line indicated by the arrows at the top and bottom of the CryptHEX.

Check the complete 12-character code carefully.

When all twelve positions are correct, the internal openings will be aligned with the lock pins on the inner tube.

Step 2 — Remove the Inner Tube

Carefully pull the inner tube straight out of the CryptHEX.

The twelve flexible lock pins should pass through the aligned openings.

Only light resistance should be present.

Do not force it. If the inner tube will not slide out, check all twelve code positions again. A single incorrectly positioned ring is enough to prevent removal.

Once the inner tube has been removed, leave all rings in this position. The CryptHEX is now in its open position, and there is no need to rotate the rings by 180 degrees.

Step 3 — Remove the Locking Lid

With the inner tube removed, the locking lid is no longer mechanically blocked.

Step 4 — Remove the Code Rings

Keep the CryptHEX in its open position.

The twelve code rings can now be slid off the outer tube. Their clearance slots are already correctly aligned with the click mechanism, so there is no need to rotate the rings first. The “O” markings now should align with the arrow on the Fixed Ring on the outer tube.

Remove all twelve code rings.

Step 5 — Reinstall the Code Rings

With the CryptHEX still in its open position, slide the twelve code rings back onto the outer tube.

Each ring can be installed in a different rotational orientation. This is how the combination is mechanically programmed. DO NOT ROTATE the inner rings during this process.

Install each ring so that the hexadecimal character required for the new combination will appear at the code-reading position indicated by the arrows.

Repeat this for all twelve positions.

Step 6 — Set and Verify the New Code

Check the characters displayed along the code-reading line between the top and bottom arrows.

They should show your new 12-character hexadecimal combination.

Valid characters are:

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A B C D E F

Check the entire code carefully before continuing.

At this point, the physical relationship between the code rings and their click positions defines the new combination. No additional programming or adjustment is required.

Write down the new code before continuing. The CryptHEX does not have a Forgot password? button.

Step 7 — Reinstall the Locking Lid

Place the locking lid onto the CryptHEX and rotate it fully into its locked position.

This must be done before inserting the inner tube.

Step 8 — Insert the Inner Tube

Keep the newly programmed code aligned between the arrows.

Carefully slide the inner tube into the CryptHEX.

The twelve flexible lock pins should pass freely through the aligned openings.

Do not force it. If the inner tube does not slide in easily, stop and check the position of all twelve rings.

Push the inner tube fully into position.

Step 9 — Lock the CryptHEX

Rotate several or all of the code rings away from the new combination.

The lock pins are now trapped behind the rings, preventing the inner tube from being removed.

Because the inner tube also prevents the locking lid from being released, the CryptHEX is now fully locked.

Step 10 — Test the New Combination

Before putting anything important inside the CryptHEX, test the new combination at least once.

Enter the new code between the arrows and verify that the inner tube can be removed.

Reinsert the inner tube and scramble the code rings again.

Verify that the inner tube and locking lid are both securely locked.

Your new combination is now ready for use.

And REMEMBER the code. There is no master key, backdoor or recovery code. There is however… the saw…

What do you need to build this CryptHEX

The STL Files

The Spring Loaded ball Plunger – 5mm

You’ll need 12 pieces.

Spacex Starship & Heavy Booster

Spaxex Starship & Heavy Booster

This page is still under construction.

For now, the images below are presented as a preview of what is coming. A complete write-up covering the design process, reverse engineering techniques, challenges and lessons learned will be added in the near future.

All STL files used to create the model will eventually be made available for download, allowing others to build their own version.

CONCEPT, soon to arrive. Already built and tested, busy publishing.

Design and Development

From Reference Photos to a Digital Launch Complex

What you see here are some of the design stages of my fully 3D-printed SpaceX Starship launch tower project. Over the course of roughly six months, every major component was designed from scratch, including the tower sections, chopsticks, Quick Disconnect Arm, tank farm, booster and Starship.

The entire model was developed using approximately 150 reference photographs collected from the internet. Since SpaceX does not publish detailed engineering drawings, this is not a perfect one-to-one reproduction. Instead, it is my own interpretation, carefully designed to match the real hardware as closely as possible based on the available imagery.

Many dimensions, structures and mechanisms had to be reverse-engineered from photographs, making this project as much an engineering exercise as it is a scale model.

Bringing Hundreds of Parts Together

These photographs document the actual construction of the model. Over a period of roughly six months, hundreds of individually printed parts were produced, tested, redesigned and assembled into what eventually became a highly detailed representation of the Starship launch complex.

The pictures show various stages of the build, including tower sections, the Super Heavy booster, Starship, the moving chopsticks, the Quick Disconnect Arm, lighting systems, wiring and numerous test assemblies. Many components went through several iterations before achieving the desired combination of strength, detail and functionality.

The model itself has been finished for well over six months. Only now have I finally found the time to start documenting the project properly and give it the place it deserves on this website. These photographs are therefore intended both as a preview and as a way to add some substance to what is still a relatively new website.

A complete project write-up is coming soon.

Over the coming months, this page will be expanded with a detailed build log, technical information, close-up photographs and practical tips for those who would like to build their own version.

This Starship tower is only the beginning. My intention is to gradually document and publish all of the projects I have created over the past six to seven years, turning this website into a showcase of the things I design and build.

Every project will be accompanied by detailed design notes, construction logs and assembly instructions. In addition, all STL files and any other data required to reproduce my designs will eventually be made available for download, allowing others to build and modify the projects themselves.

So, if you enjoy making things, feel free to bookmark this site and drop by from time to time. There is much more to come.

Zelda: BotW – Guardian Sword

Please see: Zelda: Breath of the Wild – Guardian Sword with NeoPixel LEDs for the original design of Adafruit.

Why this remix of an already beautiful design?

I made the original Zelda :BOTW Guardian Sword with NeoPixel Leds for my daughter and it looked really cool. After a few months the sword fell to the ground and broke into two pieces. The original design was nice, but not that sturdy, and… I also thought it was quite boxy.

A sturdier and more streamlined design

Then I decided to make a sturdier design that also had more flowing lines and formed a kind of sharp blade. I divided the sword into three layers that are mounted in overlapping brick bond for maximum strength. All corners are rounded and the middle layer creates an illusion of sharpness. For the rest I stayed as close to the original outline as possible because I liked it.

How it looked on the drawing Board

Assembling the sword

General Construction

Step 1: heat inserts

There are holes in the middle layer where M3 Heat Inserts can be mounted. The outsides can then be fitted with M3 hexagon socket screws.

Step 2: Screw on one of the outsides

There is a recess in the center surface for the LED strip. If the center surface is screwed to one of the outside edges, the paceholders that are in various places in the recess can be cut away.

Step 3: mount the LED strip

The LED strip can then be secured with the slotted holes that are located in various places along the recess.

Step 4 Install the other outside

If you then screw the second (other) outside onto it, you get a very sturdy whole. Leave the handle open to mount the electronics. I have added a number of screenshots that explain some things in words and images.

Step 5 Electronics

For an explanation of the electronics, I would like to refer you to the original design: Zelda: Breath of the Wild – Guardian Sword with NeoPixel LEDs. See attached photos to see how to install the electronics.

Then screw on the handle covers.

Step 6: Black details

Please note that the black details for the handle have placeholder connections. Do not glue these in place and cut them away after the glue has dried. Glue the black details in place (see photos).

And then your sword is ready.

Display base and Logo

In addition to the sword, I also designed a display base with the Zelda Logo on it.

Step 7: The Two-Tone Logo

The logo is printed with resin (liquid) with the black resin halfway replaced by yellow. (Try it, it works fine, pause the print, remove the build plate, rinse briefly, hang it back, put in a different color of resin and start again.) You can of course do something similar in your filament printer, pause, replace filament and start again.

Step 8: The support brackets

The brackets on which the sword rests are adjustable. This adjustability allows you to choose whether you want to place the base plate on something or hang it on the wall. You can adjust the angle according to your preference. I also printed those brackets with resin because you can then achieve a nice glass-like result.

Step 9: The base plate

I made it from wood because it has a very chic finish. But of course you can also print something.

Remark on supports

You must use supports for the outsides of the sword when printing. Normally I always try to make designs that you can print without supports, because supports always leave traces when removed, but that was not possible here.

Fortunately, they are on the inside and I recommend that you do not sand the surface completely smooth after removal because the irregularities give the light a nice diffuse character.

Print Settings

  • Printer brand: VoronDesign
  • Printer: Voron 2.4r2 – 350 (with mod’s)
  • Rafts: No
  • Supports: Yes (see Notes below)
  • Resolution: n/a
  • Infill: n/a
  • Filament brand: n/a
  • Filament color: White & Black
  • Filament material: PETG or ABS

STL Files

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